When lock down was announced earlier in the year, I had to shut down my classes. I figured I would have more time and space to get into a more in depth sewing project. I am always on a quest to add the perfect jeans to my handmade wardrobe. In fact jeans are one of the only things left from days of buying clothes that still hangs in my wardrobe. I have made jeans before. The last pattern I made was Vogue 8774. I wrote a blog post about these here. Followed by another pair that I made some adaptations to. I do still wear both these pairs of jeans however I felt there was room for improvement.
Enter… Closet case Ginger jeans and Morgan jeans. Both these are appealing to me because firstly I know how well cut Closet case patterns are and secondly the shapes are the two key shapes I want in my wardrobe. I started with the Ginger jeans.
On the whole I am quite lucky with trouser fittings and don’t usually need to make any major alterations. I decided to measure up and go straight to a wearable toile. My fabric choice was a dark blue stretch denim. I used a striped cotton for the pocket linings.
I made view B which are the high waisted skinny shape. My measurements were closest to the size 10, I know I have quite skinny legs so I cut an 8 in the leg. I graded out a little at the waist according to the finished measurement guide which suggested I would need to.
As with all Closet case patterns the instructions are very thorough and easy to follow.
After putting the pockets together the next stage is the fly front. This process involves machine stitching the centre front rise seam together. I have never made a fly front using this method and I have to admit I was wondering how it would work. I carried on trusting in the pattern and ended up with the most beautiful flush fly front I have ever made. This really is the highlight of this pattern.
I wanted a distinct contrast for the top-stitching so I chose a pale grey top stitch thread. I have found it is worth investing in a topstitch needle for your machine if you plan to use heavy thread. A topstitch needle has a larger eye and stops the thread dragging making a much easier ride!
I like the info in the pattern about taking inspiration from your favorite jeans for top-stitching the back pockets. I decided to keep mine plain but added a little inner curve to the second row of top-stitching.
When joining the front and back together at the inseam I came across another unusual feature. The back leg is slightly shorter between knee and crotch. Therefore you ease the pieces together through these points. This does offer a good shape for the jeans.
I tacked up the side seams and tried them on before moving on to the next step. Overall I was really pleased with the shape. After moving around in them I felt the thighs were a bit loose and pinched out 1.5cm from hip down to knee. Taking 3cm out of the circumference in total. I left the waist as it was.
Applying the waistband was as I expected. However I was a bit surprised that instructions suggested simply pressing and pinning the waistband in place before top stitching from the right side. Even with years of experience I felt this was a mess waiting to happen. I opted to tack the edge of the waistband by hand. My method for this type of application is always to tack on the very edge of the piece you are sewing down so that on the right side you have a guide to where your edge is. I did this and it worked out perfectly.
Unfortunately after wearing for the first time I realised I should have reduced the waist when I took the leg width in. They felt loose to wear rather than comfortably snug. I decided as I still had a piece of prepped fabric left over to take the waistband off, reduce the size and reapply a new waistband. This was a fair bit of work to carry out after completion. Since wearing them I am happy I made the effort.
I liked having the notes section at the back of the instruction booklet. I made notes about the fit and also noted that I needed two reels of top stitch thread to complete. Something I thought was worth mentioning because running out of thread is always a pain but much worse if the stitching is so heavily on display.