How to apply a perfect curved patch pocket.
In this tutorial I am going to show you how to sew a lovely neat curved patch pocket. I am using the Mary dress pattern to demonstrate. This style has the option of curved pockets positioned at the back or front of the dress. The dress has size options from aged 1 to 12 years. For the smaller sizes the pockets can seem more fiddly, using this technique will help you get good results even on smaller pockets.
Cut the pocket pieces out according to the instructions and mark the placement position on the dress panels. Take note of the seam allowance used on the pattern. In this case the seam allowance is 1.5cm/5/8″.
- Stitch a row of long stitches (setting 5 or the longest on your machine). Don’t back stitch at the start or finish of this line of stitching. The row needs to start a little before the curved point of the pocket and finish a little past the curve at the other side. The row also needs to be stitched approximately 1.2cm in from the edge, ideally 2-3 mm inside the seam allowance. The more accurate you can make this the easier it will be to get a nicely finished curved patch pocket.
2. Gently start to pull the row of stitching from one end so that it starts to gather but only very slightly. Not enough to form real gathers.
3. Ease the stitching around so that there are no gathers and the easing is even. The edge of the fabric should be curling towards the inside of the pocket.
4. Turn and press a double turned hem at the upper edge of the pocket. Stitch close to the inner folded edge. This is the way the Mary dress pocket is finished, other patterns may vary.
5. Now we can turn the outer curved edge. Press the seam allowance in around the edge. This will be just beyond the stitch line (2-3mm ). Use the stitch line as a guide. You might need to tweak by pulling the gather threads a little more or easing them out to create a nice smooth shape.
6. Turn the pocket to the right side and have a look to see if the shape looks symmetrical. If you are not sure if it is symmetrical fold the pocket in half length ways so the curves are matched and tweak as necessary. The ease stitch line should be inside the pocket.
7, When you feel happy with the shape place the pocket to the placement lines on the garment and pin in place. I like to pin all the way around the pocket including the top and sometimes inside the pocket to hold it flat and securely.
8. Stitch the pocket in place around the curved edges only. Back stitch a couple of times at the start and finish for extra strength. I generally follow a point on the machine foot as I sew to ensure I get an even stitch line. If you are sewing a few pockets on the same garment its good to make a mental note of the point on the foot that you followed so you can keep all your top-stitching consistent.
