Karen’s jacquard fabric longline jacket.

Hi everyone, I hope you’re doing really well.  I can’t believe how fast this year is flying by!  This blog post has been a long time coming. So I am really glad I have finally got to the point of being able to share my latest make for the Bobbins & Buttons blog with you.

When choosing what I wanted to make, I decided to go with something completely un-seasonal for the time of year! Which is something I don’t usually do.  I can’t remember how I came across it, but I’d been looking at the Sew Different Longline Jacket for a while and really wanted to have a go at making it. Bobbins and buttons blog

Bobbins and buttons blog

Fabric:

When browsing through the Bobbins & Buttons website I came across this really unusual jacquard fabric. I thought it would be perfect for making a dressy jacket – something that is missing from my wardrobe.

Bobbins and buttons blog

I didn’t realise to start with, but this fabric has a really beautiful ‘wrong side’. You can use either side for your sewing project. As this jacket is unlined it meant that I didn’t need to worry about what the inside would look like.  I was a little concerned as to how I was going to finish the seam allowances initially. Usually I would bias bind them to give the inside a pretty finish. However, because of the fabric type and the fact the print is fairly busy, I decided to overlock the seam edges and press open where necessary.  I think it works really well this way and looks very neat.

Bobbins and buttons blog

Sizing:

When choosing what size to make I went by the finished garment measurements, as my body measurements fell between two sizes.  I had heard that it is fairly generous in size and I would agree with this.  Opting for the size 10 I ended up taking the side seams in by a further 1/4” on top of the 5/8” seam allowance to bring it in slightly.

Bobbins and buttons blog

Bobbins and buttons blog

Styling details:

I really like the empire waist line – I think this is a really flattering feature.  It also comes in handy when stitching in the ditch to hold the facing in place.  The jacket also has enormous pockets which you can really make a feature of by using a contrast fabric if you like.

Bobbins and buttons blog

Bobbins and buttons blog

Making:

This jacket was an absolute joy to sew from start to finish. It is a fairly straight forward make as most of it is straight lines and the sleeves are raglan. You don’t have to set sleeves in, which is nice.  However, I wouldn’t say this pattern is suitable for a beginner because the instructions are quite sparse in areas. If you are new to sewing, it is missing out some steps that a more experienced sewer would know to do.  For instance, when to finish seam allowances and under-stitching the pockets and facings.

Bobbins and buttons blog

The jacquard fabric was really lovely to sew with and is a beautiful weight for this jacket.  It actually feels quite warm too.  I used a regular size 80 needle in my sewing machine for sewing up the majority of this jacket and then used my overlocker to finish the seams.  When it came to hemming the jacket, I didn’t want any stitches to be visible on the outside, so I decided to hand sew the hem in place. I also did this for the sleeve hems and the inside of the collar.

Bobbins and buttons blog

To give the jacket a really professional finish I used my tailor’s clapper to press all of the seams and edges.  It is unbelievable the difference this made.  If you haven’t invested in one of these yet, then definitely get one, they are brilliant!

The jacket is designed to be worn open, so there are no closures to contend with, however, if you did want to add buttons and buttonholes then you could easily do this by sizing up so that the fronts overlap.

Summing up:

I am so happy with how this jacket has sewn up, how it looks and how it fits, I will definitely be making another.  I did make a plain dress specially to go with this version, because I didn’t have anything suitable to pair it with, so in the future I will make it in a plain fabric, so that I could wear it with patterned dresses etc.  This style of jacket could easily be paired with jeans and trainers for a more casual look, but also made really dressy by making it in a brocade fabric with a matching dress for a wedding.

If you are new to sewing coats then this is the perfect pattern to ease you in.  I hope I have inspired you to give it a go yourself.

Happy Sewing!

Karen

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Julia Claridge

I was about 6 or 7 years old when I had my first go on a sewing machine, it was an old hand crank machine that my mum used with her patients, she was an occupational therapist. I still vividly remember watching with amazement as the tiny perfectly formed stitches were created as I turned the handle. I Grew up in the 70’s and 80’s when buying clothes was less affordable and dressmaking was an answer to updating your wardrobe more regularly. My own mother was a talented dressmaker who made most of my clothes and my sisters clothes as well as a many for herself. I soon got involved with making my clothes, I loved the whole experience of picking out fabrics, trims and a pattern to create a new outfit, then going home to make a new garment or outfit. When it came to leaving school I visited a careers advisor who asked what I wanted to do next. My answer was ..Sew! Read more...

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