Lynn hack 12 – Creating a volume sleeve.

This is the last in the series of Lynn pattern hacks. When I started this series of simple adaptations to the Lynn sweatshirt style we were leading life as usual. I had no idea that my collection of Lynn sweatshirts were going to get so much wear! From downtime and weekend wear lounge wear became my everyday. For this last version I am showing how to create and make a volume sleeve.

Lynn pattern hack from Bobbins and Buttons

How to make the pattern:

Start by drafting the sleeve pattern.

Lynn pattern hack from Bobbins and Buttons

  1. Trace around the sleeve pattern onto a large piece of paper. Include all the notches and the grainline.

Lynn pattern hack from Bobbins and Buttons

2. Cut the pattern piece out. Draw a line at right angles to the grainline across the width of the sleeve, 2.5cm below the armhole.

Lynn pattern hack from Bobbins and Buttons

3. Draw a right angled line from this line down the centre of the sleeve to the cuff edge. Draw a further two lines half way between the centre and underarm seams.

Lynn pattern hack from Bobbins and Buttons

4. Cut the sleeve pattern in half across the horizontal line. Cut up the vertical lines almost to the top, leave each section attached by a very small 2mm ‘hinge’.

5. Place a new piece of paper down and lay the pattern on top. It helps to have a reel of masking tape handy at this point, you can also weigh or sellotape the pattern to stop it from moving. Secure the top section to start with.

Place the lower section so that it touches the upper section of the pattern. Open out each vertical cut so the the space at the lower edge measures 11cm in each section (you can vary this amount for fuller or narrower sleeves). Carefully checking that the measurements remain correct and the upper edge is just touching the lower edge of the upper sleeve. Tape the pieces so you can redraw around the sleeve. Draw the underarm seams to a smooth line and fill in the hem edge gaps as you trace. I extended the lower sleeve edge by 2cm at each side. The sleeve will have been lengthened by approx 4cm, (gap between upper and lower sleeve) reduce this from the lower edge.

Redraw the grainline at right angles to the original horizontal line.

How to make:

Lynn pattern hack from Bobbins and Buttons

6. Stitch two rows of gather threads along the bottom edge of the sleeve. Attach the sleeves to the bodice as described in the pattern instructions. Join the underarm seams. Mark the halfway point of the cuff edge folding from the underarm seam.

Lynn pattern hack from Bobbins and Buttons

7. Mark the quarter points by bringing the half points together.

Lynn pattern hack from Bobbins and Buttons

8. Make the cuffs and mark the quarter points on each cuff.

Lynn pattern hack from Bobbins and Buttons

9. Draw the gather threads up so the sleeve edge measures the size of the original sleeve. Match the sleeve edge half and quarter points to the cuff half and quarter points. Stitch the cuff on as described in the pattern stretching as you go. The sleeve edge still needs to be stretched on or the opening will be strained when wearing the garment.

Lynn pattern hack from Bobbins and Buttons

Lynn pattern hack from Bobbins and Buttons

Lynn pattern hack from Bobbins and Buttons

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Julia Claridge

I was about 6 or 7 years old when I had my first go on a sewing machine, it was an old hand crank machine that my mum used with her patients, she was an occupational therapist. I still vividly remember watching with amazement as the tiny perfectly formed stitches were created as I turned the handle. I Grew up in the 70’s and 80’s when buying clothes was less affordable and dressmaking was an answer to updating your wardrobe more regularly. My own mother was a talented dressmaker who made most of my clothes and my sisters clothes as well as a many for herself. I soon got involved with making my clothes, I loved the whole experience of picking out fabrics, trims and a pattern to create a new outfit, then going home to make a new garment or outfit. When it came to leaving school I visited a careers advisor who asked what I wanted to do next. My answer was ..Sew! Read more...

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