This is the second in the series of hacks for the Lynn sweatshirt pattern. After coming up with several adaption ideas for this style I thought I would set myself a challenge to see if I could post a new idea each month for a whole year. You can read about my first hack here.
This idea was definitely experimental and I did quite a lot of mind changing about several elements on this. Firstly this fabric does not have any official amount of stretch because it is a woven fabric. However the quilting process makes the handle a bit more flexible and soft, though probably not enough to call it stretch. When I developed the pattern I choose to base the pattern on a classic sweatshirt fabric, most of which doesn’t have very much stretch in fact only around 15% stretch. Even so this is enough to make a difference in fit.
I wanted a boxy look but I didn’t want to look like a Michelin man. My regular standard fit for this style is medium. The question.. If I chose medium would it feel restrictive. If I chose large would it feel to bulky! I still wanted to try the idea. Its not an idea you can toile easily as it would still need to be quilted. In hindsight I could have cut a large and taken the seams in a little if it had felt to big. However I went for a size medium. Read on to find out how it worked out….
The first part of the process was to quilt the fabric. I chose a lightweight wool mix batting (I started this project in the winter when I am permanently cold!!) For the outer I used cotton lawn To start I cut fabric panels big enough to have at least a 4cm border around the pattern piece when I placed it on the fabric. The first problem immediately presented itself. Because I chose a check design I wanted the checks to stay lined up around the body. I needed to make sure I pattern matched and marked which panel was for which pattern piece and which way up!
When I began preparing for quilting I drew on chalk marks for where to quilt and pinned the two pieces together. Another learning curve when I discovered the checks were slightly irregular, meaning I was not hitting the corners of the checks with each quilt line. Rather than my quilting looking slightly off the design, I decided to quilt by eye attempting to hit the corners of each check. Even though this goes against the grain of being accurate I think it looks better once stitched.
I picked out the green colour from the print for the thread and used a standard polyester thread. The texture of the batting gripped pretty well to the back of the fabric so I managed to quilt the pieces holding them together with only a few pins. Starting from the top and worked down for every line to ensure I didn’t get any dragging.
I opted for the size medium. Deciding to leave off the hem band and adding 8cm to the overall length of the front and back pieces. This was decided before cutting the panels for quilting.
I made the Lynn sweatshirt up as usual fitting the neckband and the cuffs. Leaving the hem un-stitched.
To neaten the inside I decided to line it with regular lining. I left this uncut until the top was made so I could see how much ‘give’ the quilted piece had. It actually has a surprising amount of flexibility. Therefore I added 1cm to each side of the body width and the sleeve width to balance the slight stretch with the non-stretch. To get this measurement I measured the hem width at slight stretch and the hem width of the pattern.
Attaching the lining was the next challenge. This went surprisingly well. I made the lining up as a regular top without adding the bands. Starting at the neckline I quartered the lining neck, I also had to re-quarter the neck edge. Next time I would have this marked with chalk to save doing the process twice. With right sides together I matched the quarters and stitched the lining neck edge in place.
This neatly finished the neck edge and ticked all my happy ‘neat on the inside as the outside’ boxes!! I pulled the lining through the sleeves and managed to twist the cuff edge in such a way that I could stitch them in the same manor.
To complete I pinned the lining edge to the outer edge and overlocked the two together which is when I found that the additional centimetre on the seams worked perfectly. The hems fitted together exactly. I chose a deep feature single turned hem to finish.
The verdict – Overall I am happy with how it looks, it is indeed snugly and warm and very wearable. If I made another I would probably use the same size, I would increase the width of the sleeves a little bit as they feel a tiny bit restrictive. I might also try one with 3/4 sleeves like the version I made in scuba.
I really enjoyed quilting the cotton and I love that quilting this lightweight cotton lawn gives the fabric a whole new world of possibilities. Worn here with my fav self drafted navy linen blend trousers.