Understanding Fabric – A Starting Point for Choosing the Right Material
In this series, I’m exploring different things to consider when making your own clothes versus buying them. There’s a lot to think about, from choosing the right style for your body shape to picking fabrics that will work with your project. So far, we’ve looked at the differences between buying and making, and some key factors to consider before even choosing what to make or what fabric to use.
One of the questions that comes up most often is:
“What fabric works with which pattern?”
“Will this fabric suit that style?”
In this post, I want to share some practical fabric knowledge that can help you make these decisions. Don’t worry — it won’t get too technical! But having a little understanding of fabrics can make a big difference, especially when shopping online.
I often find that people think “cotton” refers to either sewing thread or a classic shirt-weight woven fabric. In reality, cotton is a fibre, not a single fabric type. That means it can be spun and woven or knitted into an enormous variety of fabrics — from heavyweight sweatshirt fleece to denim, corduroy, jersey, poplin, twill, and the finest lightweight cotton lawns. The fibre is the starting point; the weave, knit, and finishing processes are what determine how the final fabric looks, feels, and behaves.
A Quick Look at Fabric Basics
All fabrics are mostly either knitted or woven, and both are made from fibres. The fibre type largely determines a fabric’s qualities — for example, linen creases easily, while polyester barely creases at all.
Here’s a basic guide to some of the most common fibres:
Cotton
Breathable, soft, and comfortable. Cotton fabrics have a bit of natural volume and are easy to sew. They absorb moisture but can crease easily. Cotton can be woven into crisp shirting or knitted into soft jerseys.
Polyester
A durable, synthetic fibre that resists shrinking and creasing. Polyester is less breathable than natural fibres but often blended with others to add strength, smoothness, and reduce wrinkles.
Linen
Breathable and textured, linen creases easily but softens beautifully with wear.
Viscose (Rayon)
Soft, smooth, and drapey. Viscose moves beautifully. It can shrink and crease..
Wool
Provides warmth, elasticity, and resilience. Wool varies widely in texture and weight, from fine merino to chunky tweeds.
How Fibre Type Affects Fabric
The fibre’s natural characteristics carry through to the finished fabric. For instance:
- Cotton keeps its structure and breathability whether woven or knitted.
- Viscose drapes beautifully regardless of construction.
Blends, fabric quality, finishing techniques, and weight all impact the final result. Knowing these characteristics helps you make informed choices:
- Want drape? Look for viscose or viscose blends.
- Want breathable fabric? Choose cotton or linen.
- Want warmth? Wool is your friend.
Understanding Fabric Weight
Fabric weight, usually measured in gsm (grams per square metre), is another useful clue:
- 90gsm = lightweight (blouses, linings)
- 350gsm = heavy (denim, coats, heavy sweatshirt fabrics)
Keep in mind that fibre type affects how weight feels. Viscose may feel heavier at the same gsm because it’s dense, while cotton often feels bulkier.
Ordering Samples
Even seasoned sewers can benefit from ordering fabric samples. Subtle variations in colour, weave, and texture aren’t always visible online. Ordering samples allows you to check colour, feel, and suitability, saving frustration later.
It can also be really helpful to compare your fabric sample to garments you already have in your wardrobe. How does the weight, handle, and structure of the new fabric compare? This simple comparison can help you visualise how the garment you want to make will drape and feel once it’s finished.
Final Thoughts
Building your fabric knowledge takes time, but even a little understanding of fibres, fabric types, and weight can make choosing materials much easier. Over time, you’ll gain confidence in picking fabrics that match your patterns and style.
Stay tuned for the next post in the series, where we’ll explore more practical tips for selecting fabrics and patterns to suit your style and sewing goals.
