We often focus on fabrics, patterns, and sewing techniques when it comes to making or choosing clothes—but one thing that gets overlooked is your foundation garments. Yes, your bra! It’s especially important if you have a bigger bust, but honestly, everyone benefits from a bra that fits properly.
Think of your bra as the base that all your clothes sit on. It shapes your garments, affects how fabrics drape, and can completely change the way your clothes look. A well-fitted bra can make even simple outfits feel polished, while the wrong fit can make even the nicest clothes look off.
What Makes a Bra Well-Fitted?
A well-fitting bra should:
- Support your bust comfortably, without digging in or leaving marks
- Sit level at the back, not riding up or slipping down
- Have straps that stay in place without cutting into your shoulders
- Fully encapsulate your breasts so there’s no spillage
Finding Your Right Size
Your bra size comes from two measurements: band size (around your back) and cup size (the volume of your bust). These work together proportionally, so the same cup size can look very different depending on your back size.
For example:
- I wear a 32G. My back is narrow, so even though my bust might not look huge, this size gives the support I need.
- Someone with a broader back and a similar cup volume might wear a 38B. The cup volume is similar, but the band size adjusts for the body’s proportion.
Getting this right is worth it! It not only feels more comfortable but makes your clothes hang properly and look their best.
These photos show the difference between a well-fitting bra (top) and an ill-fitting bra (bottom). The sizes are 32G in the upper photo and 34F in the lower. In the second photo, the cup size is too small and the band size too large, causing a lumpy, spilling shape at the front while the back strap rides up. It completely changes my body shape — the only difference between these pictures is the bra.
Why This Matters for Sewing
When you’re making your own clothing, you have the freedom to adjust dart positions, shaping, and fit. But starting with a well-supported, balanced body shape is a great starting point. A properly fitting bra ensures your proportions are accurate, so all the time and care you put into sewing your garments is reflected in a smoother, more flattering final fit. A good foundation allows your handmade clothes to look their absolute best.
Tips for finding the right bra size
Start with your current bra. Put on the bra you wear most often and check the band, cups, straps, and centre front to see what isn’t working. This gives you useful clues about the size or style you may need. Next, measure your under bust by wrapping a soft tape measure snugly around your ribcage directly under the bust — this measurement usually corresponds closely to your band size. Then measure around the fullest part of your bust, keeping the tape level. There are several approaches to determining cup size, and many fitters judge it by eye, but by assessing your current bra you may already have a sense of whether you need to go up or down in the cup.
When checking the fit, the band should sit level around your body, and you should be able to fit two fingers comfortably underneath but no more. The cups should lay smoothly against the body — wrinkling can indicate a cup that’s too large, while any spilling suggests it’s too small. If you’re unsure, a professional fitting is well worth considering. Although sizes vary between brands just like ready-to-wear clothing, having an expert guide you can make finding the right bra far easier.
