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Simple sporty hack for the Dean sweatshirt pattern.

A few weeks ago I launched the first pattern for men. Like its counterparts Lynn and Theodor, Dean is a classic sweatshirt shape, this one cut to fit men. One of the criteria I look for when deciding whether to publish a pattern is its versatility. I like to think about the option of making the style in different fabrics or with other techniques that could be applied. Also its hacking potential!

This is a tutorial for a really simple hack that adds a bit of detail and a slight sporty edge to the style. Of course this could easily be applied to the Theodor or Lynn patterns too.

Materials and supplies:

Main fabric and contrast panel fabric:

I made this in a lovely cotton brushed back sweatshirt fabric, both colours are the same quality. This idea is perfect if you have large pieces left over from another project that you could use for the shoulder panels. The fabrics don’t need to be exactly the same quality however it will work better if they are similar in weight.

For fabric quantities you will be able to reduce the main fabric by the panel depth. You will need the panel depth of the contrast fabric.

Rib fabric for the neck, cuff and hem bands. I used the rib that we stock that matches the sweatshirt fabric. If all the rib is going to be the same colour the pattern shows these requirements.

Cotton webbing tape, I used a piece from my stash. This is readily available, I usually buy this from eBay. You need approximately 1 metre.

Altering the pattern:

Altering the pattern is very simple, it’s really only a case of dividing the pattern at the point where you want the panel. I would recommend tracing the pattern off and keeping the master pattern for other hacks and to use plain. Then you can alter the traced pattern. The diagram below shows the details.

Once you have divided the pattern simply add the seam allowance to the upper and lower panel. I generally tape a piece of paper where I want to extend and mark in the seam allowance using a pattern ruler. You could also retrace the pattern adding this seam allowance.

How to make:

Draw a chalk line for the upper edge of the webbing tape on the lower sleeve panel, this needs to be the seam allowance plus a small gap. For this top I used 2.5cm (1cm seam allowance + 1.5cm gap).

Place the top edge of the tape to this line and pin in place.

Stitch the tape close to the edge at both sides.

With right sides together pin the upper and lower sleeve panels together, stitch together. From this point you can continue with the pattern instructions.

I think you could have a lot of fun playing with different panels, perhaps extending it across the front and back. Trying out different colour ribs, or colour blocking there are lots of options.

I hope you enjoyed this post. Happy hacking!

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Julia Claridge

I was about 6 or 7 years old when I had my first go on a sewing machine, it was an old hand crank machine that my mum used with her patients, she was an occupational therapist. I still vividly remember watching with amazement as the tiny perfectly formed stitches were created as I turned the handle. I Grew up in the 70’s and 80’s when buying clothes was less affordable and dressmaking was an answer to updating your wardrobe more regularly. My own mother was a talented dressmaker who made most of my clothes and my sisters clothes as well as a many for herself. I soon got involved with making my clothes, I loved the whole experience of picking out fabrics, trims and a pattern to create a new outfit, then going home to make a new garment or outfit. When it came to leaving school I visited a careers advisor who asked what I wanted to do next. My answer was ..Sew! Read more...

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