For newsletter subscribers this month the additional pieces that are free to download will turn the basic boxy top pattern into a square necked version with a frill detail. The details for how to download the pattern pieces are published in the newsletter. These are the instructions for how to make this version.
Body measurement size chart
Fabric requirements:
This top works in a variety of fabrics including, cotton lawn, cotton poplin, cotton blends, double gauze and other light to medium weight fabrics. I made this version in double gauze.
Light weight fusible interfacing – optional for neck facing.
See pattern for fabric quantities
To Cut:
Use piece B and E from the first pattern cut 1 of each on the fold.
S – Cut 1 on fold
T – Cut 1 on fold.
U – Cut 1 on fold
Cut a strip for the frill measuring 1.5 x the width of the upper edge of the front piece (S). The depth of the frill can vary depending on your taste. It needs to be narrower than the depth of the armhole below where the frill will hang. For this top I cut my strip 6cm wide including seam allowance. How you finish the edge of the frill may also determine how wide you cut the frill. I finished this frill with a an overlocker rolled hem which only reduced the width by about 2mm.
How to make:
The seam allowance is 1.5cm unless otherwise stated.
Apply fusible interfacing (if using) to the facing pieces.
- Finish one long edge of your frill. There are different ways you can do this. The fabric you have chosen may determine the best finish. I finished the edge of this frill with an overlocked rolled hem. This is a very neat finish and works particularly well on double gauze. For fabrics like cotton lawn or poplin a very narrow double turned hem would work well. You could also bind the edge. Sew two rows of longer gather stitches at the other edge of the frill.
2. Fold the frill strip in half to find the centre and match this with the centre of the upper edge of the lower front panel. Gently draw the gather threads up so that the size of the frill matches the upper edge. The short ends of the frill should line up with the armhole edge. Pin the frill in place gently teasing the gathers so that the frill fits the edge. Stitch in place ideally just within the seam allowance or with a longer stitch so that this row can be removed if visible once the upper panel is attached.
3. With RST (right sides together) pin the upper front panel to the lower front panel sandwiching the frill between the two. Stitch and neaten the raw edge. Press this seam down towards the hem.
4. Turn and press the shoulder seams of the facing pieces. With RST pin the front facing to the front piece around the neck edge and the front armhole ( sandwiching the frill between the pieces). Keep the seam allowance pressed in at the shoulder. Repeat for the back pieces.
Neaten the lower edge of the facing pieces.
5. Stitch the neck edge and armhole edges. Before moving on to the next step its worth checking that your shoulder seams will match when stitched together. Lay the front next to the back or on top of the back and check that the shoulder seam widths are the same. If they are not matching it is worth re-stitching for a better match as it will make the next steps much easier.
6. Trim and clip into the points at the front neck edge. Clip into the curve around the back neck. Turn each piece to the front and press.
7. With RST pin the front and back together at the shoulders. Stitch ensuring the folded facing seam is kept free.
8. Press the shoulder seam open and lap the folded facing seam over the shoulder seam. Slip stitch the seam closed by hand.
9. With RST pin the front and back together at the side seams matching the underarm point. Lift the facing edge and pin from the edge of the facing pivoting at the underarm seam. Stitch and neaten raw edges.
10. Try the top on and check the length of the top, reduce if desired. Turn and press a double turned hem at the lower edge. Stitch close to the inner edge.
11. Fold the facing into position at the under arm seam and hand stitch to the side seam.
