This months version of the boxy top pattern that is free to newsletter subscribers has a button back addition. I’m slightly holding on to the last days of summer with this version in checked linen. Perhaps I’m dreaming of the next half term break in warmer climates that I wish we were going to be having. Hopefully you might be heading somewhere warmer soon where this would be a great addition to a holiday wardrobe. I think it would also make a lovely evening top with a fancy button on evening fabric.
This version uses the same front as the original pattern. The new back and facing pieces are downloadable free from the subscribers page which is published in the latest newsletter.
This style buttons at the back with a large feature button. The pattern is designed to take a 30mm button. A 30mm button is the largest size most machine buttonholes will do, however this will often cater for a button up to 35mm. The button I used is here is 40mm which will still work with this pattern by moving the buttonhole position over slightly. These making instructions include a bound buttonhole. A bound buttonhole makes a lovely designer feature however they do take a bit of time. You can make a regular machine buttonhole if you are using a 30/35mm button.
This top works in a variety of fabrics including, cotton lawn, cotton poplin, linen, cotton blends, double gauze, dupion silk and other medium weight fabrics.
You will also need a light to medium weight fusible interfacing.
Approximately 1 metre narrow bias binding
1 x 30/35mm button or up to 40mm if making a bound buttonhole.
See pattern for fabric quantities
Use piece A from the first pattern cut 1 on the fold.
Use the pieces:
G – Cut 1 on fold
J – Cut 1 pair
K – Cut 1 pair
How to make:
The seam allowance is 1.5cm unless otherwise stated.
Apply fusible interfacing to the facing pieces.
1.With right sides together (RST) pin and stitch front and back neck facings pieces at the shoulder seam. Neaten raw inner edge.
2. With RST and raw edges matched pin the front and back together at the shoulder seams. Neaten raw edges.
For a standard buttonhole move on to step 11.
For bound buttonhole:
3. Cut two rectangles of fabric measuring approximately 2.5cm longer than the desired length of the buttonhole by 2cm (you can vary the width if you prefer a different finished size – this will finish 0.5cm at each side of the buttonhole. The finished width will be quarter of the cut width). I interfaced these strips as I decided to cut the fabric on the bias, if you interface these pieces use a very lightweight interfacing so they don’t become to bulky. Press the pieces in half length-ways.
4. Mark the seam allowance on the left hand side of the back with chalk. Mark the buttonhole position. If you are using a larger button you will need to move the button hole in a little from the position marked on the pattern. You can test how this will look by positioning the centre of the button over the start point of the buttonhole. Check there is enough border at the edge of the button down the centre back once the seam has been stitched. Chalk mark the outer edge of the buttonhole.
5. Machine stitch carefully around the chalk mark of the outer edge.
6. Place the folded pieces raw edges facing each other at the centre line of the buttonhole marking. Carefully stitch along the centre of each buttonhole piece, securing with back stitch at the start and finish in line with the chalk marking underneath.
7. Turn to the reverse side to check your lines are matched up with the original outline stitching. Accuracy is key to making a nice even buttonhole.
8. With a small sharp pair of scissors cut the fabric of the back panel through the centre of the buttonhole, snipping into the corners as shown.
9. Push the buttonhole pieces to the other side and press.
10. Fold the top back to reveal the triangle of fabric from the cut. Stitch this to the buttonhole pieces, stitching as close as possible to the wide end of the triangle. Repeat on the other side of the buttonhole.
11. With RST , seams and raw edges matched pin the neck facing to the neck edge. Stitch.
12. Clip the front neck edge and trim away some of the bulk from the centre back point.
13. Under stitch from the buttonhole angle around the front neck facing and to the angle on the other side.
14. Press the facing inside. With RST pin and stitch the side seams. Neaten raw edges.
15. With RST pin the bias binding raw edge to raw edge of armhole. Fold the raw edge of the bias binding in at the start and overlap slightly where it joins. Stitch in the crease of the bias tape.
16. Press the bias tape away from the armhole.
17. Fold the bias binding to the inside, pin and stitch close to the edge of the tape.
18. Neaten the hem edge and press the hem to your desired depth. This hem measures 3cm deep. Turn the back facing with right side to the back panel, pin the lower edge the same hem depth. Stitch.
19. Trim the lower edge of the facing seam, trimming away bulk from the corner before turning though to the right side.
20. Press and stitch hem starting at centre back edge across the facing round to the other edge.
To finish bound buttonhole:
21. Lay the top flat ensuring the facing is in place and aligned properly. Draw a chalk line through the buttonhole, push a pin through the top at either end of the buttonhole to help hold the position.
22. Turn the top to the reverse leaving the pins in place. Feeling with a pin push a pin through at each corner of the buttonhole from the back to front, check the front is still aligned. With a small sharp pair of scissors carefully cut the centre of the chalk line from the right side, turn to the reverse to pivot the line towards the corners as in step 8.
23. Turn the raw edges in away from the buttonhole and pin in along seams of the buttonhole. Slip stitch around the buttonhole to complete. Stitch the button on the opposite side.
If you are making a machine buttonhole mark the buttonhole and work with the machine. Stitch the button on the other side.
24. Hand catch the neck facing to the shoulder seam.