This month newsletter subscribers can download the additional pattern pieces needed to turn the free basic boxy top pattern into this open tie back version. This top is lovely and cool to wear. Even though it has an open back, the panels are stitched in at the shoulder seams so it will keep you cool without the risk of exposing to much!
The instructions for how to download the pattern are printed in the current newsletter. These are the instructions for how to make the top.
Size chart for the body measurements:
This top works in a variety of fabrics including, cotton lawn, cotton poplin, cotton blends, double gauze and other light to medium weight fabrics. I made this version in cotton lawn.
Light weight fusible interfacing – optional for neck facing.
1.5cm wide Bias binding
See pattern for fabric quantities
Use piece A from the first basic pattern, cut 1 on fold, use piece G from the button back version cut 1 on fold and piece F from the 3/4 sleeve version and cut 1 on fold.
Q – Cut 1 pair.
R – Cut 1 pair.
Cut facing pieces in interfacing if using.
Cut two strips for the ties. For this top I made a size 14 and cut 2 strips 75cm x 6cm. Using a 1.5cm seam allowance my ties finished width is 1.5cm. You can choose the width and length based on size and taste. If you are unsure cut them a little longer and pin in place to help you decide. You can always cut them down if they look to long.
For ties the same as shown in the photograph increase the length by 1.5cn for larger sizes and decrease by 1.5cm for the smaller sizes.
How to make:
This pattern piece is cut shorter than the original so that the ties sit above the hips on the finished top. This can be altered to suit your body length and preference. However you will need to adjust the front so that the pattern pieces will fit together. The front should measure 5.5cm longer at the side seam than the back. As the top is straight at the side seams you can simply cut the excess from the lower edge of the front.
If you want to short or lengthen the back this will need to be added through the middle of the panel.
The seam allowance is 1.5cm unless otherwise stated.
Apply fusible interfacing (if using) to the facing pieces.
- Turn and press a double folded hem finishing 1.5cm at each centre back. Stitch close to the inner edge.
2. Turn and press a double turned hem at each angled edge of the hem facing pieces. Stitch close to the inner edge. You can also trim the seam in line with the lower edge.
3. With RST (right sides together) pin the hem facing pieces to the back hem, lining the angle up with the back opening. Stitch in place. Turn and press a 1.5cm seam allowance at the other edge of the hem facing.
4. Press the hem facing down away from the top.
5. With RST pin the back and front neck facing pieces at the shoulder seams. Stitch, press the seams open. Neaten the outer raw edges of the facing.
6. Lay one back piece wrong side on to the right side of the other back piece with the back neck edges matching. Stitch the two back pieces together along the shoulder and neck edge. Sew within the seam allowance. This line of stitching is just to hold the two back pieces together so you can work with the back as a single piece.
With RST pin the back and front together at the shoulder seams. Stitch and neaten raw edges.
7. With RST and shoulder seams matched pin the neck facing to the neck edge. Stitch and clip into the curves around the neck edge.
8. Understitch around the neck facing. Push the neck facing to the inside and press. Hand stitch the shoulder seams of the facing to the shoulder seams of the top.
9. Make the ties, with RST pin down the length and across one short end. Turn the ties through and press. Pin one tie to each side seam (raw edge to side seam). The tie needs to be positioned in the centre of where the facing will be stitched. Place the centre of the tie 2.75cm up from the seam. Stitch in place within the seam allowance. Neaten the raw edges of each side seam front and back.
10. Cut a piece of bias binding slightly longer than the armhole edge. Pin the binding to the armhole edge matching raw edges and pinning in the fold of the binding. Start to stitch 1.5cm away from the side seam leaving approximately 3cm of binding at either end free.
11. With RST pin and stitch the back and front together at the side seams. Press the seam open.
12. Turn the binding to the inside, pin the inner folded edge flat around the armhole. Fold the lower raw edges of the binding up, squaring off under the armhole opening. Stitch close to the outer edge. There will be a small gap between the binding directly under the armhole.
13. Turn and press the front hem in line with the back hem facing. Turn again so that the edge of the front hem is folded in line with the back hem facing seam. Tuck the seam in at the opening edge so that is is not poking out beyond the finished edge. Stitch the hem in place close to the inner edge. Take care not to catch the tie in the stitching.
14. Tie a bow while the top is flat so the shape doesn’t become distorted.