Last week I introduced you to my new subscribers free patterns. The first pattern is now published and available to newsletter subscribers. If you would like to sign up to the newsletter you can do here.
This is the basic boxy top pattern. Over the next few months I will post additional parts to transform this simple style into lots of others. Offering a variety of techniques for you to learn while adding useful tops to your wardrobe for multiple occasions and seasons.
Choose your size:
Take your body measurements. Use the size charts to decide which size you are going to make.
This style is designed to be loose fitting. You may want to change the length of the top, as this top is boxy and has straight side seams you can simply add or reduce the length evenly at the bottom of the front and back.
The version I am wearing in the photo I shortened to finish 58cm. I made a size 14 and I am 5′.6″ tall.
Fabric and requirements:
This top works in a variety of fabrics including, cotton lawn, cotton poplin, linen, cotton blends, seersucker and double gauze.
If you would like to keep the shape quite boxy and angular you might like to use a lightweight fusible interfacing on the facing piece. You can omit this for a softer shape or if your fabric is quite stiff.
For fabric requirement see the chart below:
How to make:
The seam allowance is 1.5cm
Apply fusible interfacing to the facing pieces if using.
- Turn and press the seam allowance at the shoulder edges of the facing pieces on both front and back facing pieces.
2. With RST (right sides together) and raw edges matched pin the front facing to the front bodice piece at neck edge and armhole edges. Keep the pressed shoulder seam allowance pressed downwards as shown. Do the same with the back facing piece and back bodice.
Tip – Try to be as accurate as possible with measuring the seam allowance as this will make the next stages easier.
3. Stitch the neck edge and the armhole as pinned on front bodice and then do the same on back bodice. Reinforce the start and finish of each seam with backward stitch.
4. Before moving on to the next stage lay the front and back shoulder seams together to check they match. If they don’t match you can re-stitch a new line to get a better match. It is worth tweaking this to be accurate for a neat shoulder seam.
5. Trim neck edges and the armhole edges to around 0.75cm and clip around the curves.
Neaten the lower edge of the facing. If you have an overlocker you can simply overlock this edge. If not zig zag stitch or turning a 2-3mm turning and stitching with a straight stitch are good alternatives.
6. Turn the front and the back pieces to the right side and press.
7. With the outer right sides together pin the shoulder seams together.
This is where a good match will pay off. Its not to late to turn it back and tweak the seam if its not a good match.
8.Take care to keep the inner folded seam allowance clear, stitch the shoulder seams. Reinforce well at the start and finish of each shoulder seam.
9. Lay the top flat and press the shoulder seam open.
10. Allow the pressed facing seam allowance to close over the shoulder seam. Discreetly slip stitch the back and front facing seam allowance together.
11. With RST pin the side seams together. Open out the facing so you can start from the facing edge and stitch all the way to the lower hem edge of the top. Neaten raw edges.
12. Press the seams open. Hand stitch the facing discreetly to the seam, ensure the stitches attach only to the seam not all the way through.
13. To complete turn and press a double fold hem. Press the raw edge approximately 1cm followed by 1.5cm . Stitch the hem close to the inner folded edge.